You can't miss it: upon entering Myanmar's old Bagan city by road, air or river, you'll inevitably come across a checkpoint that requires you to pay US$20 to get the ticket that grants entry to the Bagan Archaeological Zone.

The ticket is issued by the Myanmar Tourism Federation on behalf of the Ministry of Culture; the proceeds, a Ministry spokesman explains, will "get more income for Bagan region to be able to use in preservation and protection of the site," in preparation for Myanmar's new bid for UNESCO World Heritage site inclusion.


(Read about Southeast Asia's UNESCO World Heritage sites.)

Where to buy the ticket: ticketing desks can be seen at every tourist gateway into Bagan. At Nyaung U Airport, the ticketing desk is right in the middle of the lobby, beside the exit to the parking lot. At the river ferry and the bus station, their respective ticket booths stand beside the road leading out to Bagan (your ride will stop to let you buy the ticket).

What it gets you: The ticket covers access to all Bagan temples, well-known and obscure alike. It is valid for up to five days from purchase.

Where it's checked: You will not be asked to show your ticket at every temple, but surprise inspections may take place anywhere. Two temples are strict about checking your ticket: these are Htilominlo Temple and Shwesandaw Temple.

Can you get in without the ticket? It's not likely you can slip past the ticketing areas, but if you do, you won't be asked for it again unless you visit Htilominlo and Shwesandaw.

And even then - honestly, we don't recommend going without.

It feels too much like doing a dine and dash. And that's a horrible thing to do, especially as you're a guest in someone else's home. (Read more about Etiquette in Myanmar.)

For more helpful tips about travel in Bagan and the rest of Myanmar, read these articles about Myanmar's money (called the kyat); eating Myanmar's local cuisine; our list of travel tips for first-time Myanmar tourists ; and our insider guide to staying safe in Myanmar.