Fitting a New Radiator
If one of your existing radiators is malfunctioning in some way, or else just out of character with the decor of your home why not replace it with a brand new one? You'll find this job straightforward if you follow our instructions.
Your new radiator will probably have four holes or tappings - one at each corner - and each one will have a female screwed thread.
How you connect the radiator up to your system depends on the way in which the old one was fitted.
Nowadays it is usual for the flow and return connections to be made to the bottom two holes but, of course, if your system had the flow pipe at a higher level then you'll have to reconnect it in the same way.
Fit an air-valve into one of the top tappings.
First wrap PTFE thread sealing tape anti- clockwise round the male thread of the valve and then use a radiator key that grips inside the body of the valve to screw it home.
Unless your radiator has a top inlet the other top tapping must be plugged with a blanking off plug.
This should also be wrapped with PTFE tape and screwed home in the same way as the air vent.
You'll then have to fit tail pieces and coupling screws (either new ones, or the ones from the original radiator if you can remove them) on to the new one.
Again wrap each thread with PTFE tape before fitting them.
It's a good idea to buy new wall brackets for your replacement radiator After all, you can't be sure the old ones will be suitable.
You should drill and plug the wall and then fix the brackets in place.
Fit the radiator so that the air vent end is fractionally higher than the outlet valve.
This will make venting easier.
You can now fix the radiator in place and connect the coupling nuts to the hand-valve and lock-shield valve and screw them up tightly.
You'll have to open the air-valve at the top of the radiator so that the air in it can be displaced as it fills with water.
All you do is slowly open the hand-valve and allow the radiator to fill.
When water starts to flow from the air-valve you'll know all the air has been displaced and you should immediately close the valve.
Finally, open the lock-shield valve by the same number of turns and part turns it took originally to close it.
Your new radiator will probably have four holes or tappings - one at each corner - and each one will have a female screwed thread.
How you connect the radiator up to your system depends on the way in which the old one was fitted.
Nowadays it is usual for the flow and return connections to be made to the bottom two holes but, of course, if your system had the flow pipe at a higher level then you'll have to reconnect it in the same way.
Fit an air-valve into one of the top tappings.
First wrap PTFE thread sealing tape anti- clockwise round the male thread of the valve and then use a radiator key that grips inside the body of the valve to screw it home.
Unless your radiator has a top inlet the other top tapping must be plugged with a blanking off plug.
This should also be wrapped with PTFE tape and screwed home in the same way as the air vent.
You'll then have to fit tail pieces and coupling screws (either new ones, or the ones from the original radiator if you can remove them) on to the new one.
Again wrap each thread with PTFE tape before fitting them.
It's a good idea to buy new wall brackets for your replacement radiator After all, you can't be sure the old ones will be suitable.
You should drill and plug the wall and then fix the brackets in place.
Fit the radiator so that the air vent end is fractionally higher than the outlet valve.
This will make venting easier.
You can now fix the radiator in place and connect the coupling nuts to the hand-valve and lock-shield valve and screw them up tightly.
You'll have to open the air-valve at the top of the radiator so that the air in it can be displaced as it fills with water.
All you do is slowly open the hand-valve and allow the radiator to fill.
When water starts to flow from the air-valve you'll know all the air has been displaced and you should immediately close the valve.
Finally, open the lock-shield valve by the same number of turns and part turns it took originally to close it.
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