The claim “gluten-free” is increasingly appearing on cosmetic packaging.  But is having gluten in beauty products really something to be concerned about, or is it yet another marketing ploy?  After all not all beauty products labeled natural are free from chemicals and not all products labeled cruelty-free contain ingredients that weren’t tested on animals.

But it can make a difference if you have celiac disease.

Celiac disease is a hereditary autoimmune disorder in which the small intestines become damaged and disrupts the absorption of vital nutrients.  Those with celiac disease are unable to tolerate gluten protein found in wheat, rye and barley.

Caucasians have the highest rate of the disease, but it actually does affect Asians, blacks and people of Latin American descent.  While it is still considered rare in those races, it might also be because these populations are under- or misdiagnosed and don’t undergo medical testing for the condition. 

Gluten in Cosmetics

Wheat and oat derivatives are commonly used in beauty products.  Oats (avena sativa), known for having skin soothing and exfoliating properties, is used in bath soaks, soap and body scrubs. Wheat-derived ingredients are mostly found in hair care products.  Wheat germ oil is a wonderful emollient and because it is rich in vitamin E is used in anti-aging serums and body oils, lip treatments and other products that hydrate and protect against premature skin aging.

But not everyone is convinced that gluten in beauty products poses a real problem.

Many scientists say that while gluten is a problem when ingested, it is not absorbed by the skin.

"There’s little research in scientific journals that supports or refutes the use or necessity of gluten-free products," says Dr. Marnie Nussbaum, board certified dermatologist and Chief Medical Spokesperson for Sebamed.  "Some of these studies report that the gluten molecules are too large to be absorbed by the skin.

“It is unclear whether these molecules (when applied topically) truly can penetrate into the blood stream, or if the protein produces a local reaction/sensitivity when touching the skin,”  Dr. Nussbaum  continues.  “However, many patients, including gluten-sensitive and celiac patients, anecdotally report adverse reactions to products containing gluten, including those topically applied. Therefore, should you fall into this category, use of gluten free beauty products certainly won't hurt you and if anything may ameliorate certain skin conditions.”

Another reason why some medical professionals are not convinced is that skin reactions are sometimes caused by dermatitis herpetiformis, an intensely itchy rash or blisters thought to be an autoimmune disorder linked to celiac disease but caused by gluten that has been ingested in the diet.

Those who truly have celiac disease may have legitimate concerns.   Shampoos and shower gel/body wash can get into the eyes and mouth.  As can eye makeup, and of course lipstick and lip balms, which can be ingested. 

“If you wear a lipstick, lip gloss or balm every day, you can expect to digest about two tubes of that product per year!" states Dr. Nussbaum.  "So if you’re sensitive to gluten in your diet, it’s especially important to ensure your lip products are gluten-free. Furthermore, on the off chance any product applied to a gluten-sensitive patient remains on the fingertips, it could make it into the gastrointestinal tract." 

But there is also some chance that lotions and creams that are used on the hands can transfer to food.  In addition, there is the possibility of hair sprays and other items that are sprayed into the air could be inhaled or get onto the surfaces of furniture and other items.

There’s a saying that you should never put anything on your skin that you wouldn’t put inside your mouth because the skin will absorb anything that you put on it. 

"When you look at skin care and makeup ingredients at the microscopic level, each ingredient has a different particle size. It is truly debatable what size particle can enter the bloodstream and cause a specific reaction," Dr. Nussbaum explains.  "A lot of skin care products, like anti-aging creams and serums, are made to penetrate the surface level of the skin to treat wrinkles, fade sunspots or deeply moisturize. That’s how they deliver results! And that’s why it’s so important to know the ingredients you’re putting on your skin, because unless you’re using a mineral-based sunscreen product (which is specifically made to sit on top of the skin), you can assume everything you see on the ingredients label is reacting with your body, even if only in very small amounts. So just like we want to avoid potentially harmful ingredients like parabens and formaldehyde in skin care, we should also avoid wheat and gluten if we know that’s something our bodies cannot tolerate.”

Is it a reaction to gluten in the products?  Or could you be allergic to something else?

Some people are prone to allergic reactions and could be reacting to non-gluten and non-wheat ingredients like preservatives and fragrances or a chemical ingredient.  These individuals can have patch tests to ease their concerns.  That’s not to say that you can’t be sensitive to gluten.  Physicians are beginning to believe that patients can indeed have gluten allergies or gluten sensitivity. Health professionals now officially call gluten-intolerance and gluten sensitivity "non-celiac gluten-sensitivity" (NCGS).

While people can be given a celiac blood test, there is no official medical test for NCGS.  Fortunately for those with celiac disease and gluten-intolerance, there are resources on the Internet to help them find gluten-free beauty products.

Using gluten-free products if you do not have celiac disease or non-celiac gluten sensitivity will probably only be healthy for beauty companies and might hit you in the pocketbook instead of the gut.  Some companies might impose a high price along with that gluten-free label.  Many beauty products are naturally gluten-free.