If Your Lawn Could Speak
If we could simply flick a switch and instantly change our lawn to a beautiful, healthy green, who among us would fail to make this change.
A healthy, well cared for lawn simply looks stunning! It's beautiful to look at, fun to play on, dramatically increases a properties curb appeal and potential value and best of all, is extremely healthy for the environment.
The fact is, achieving a beautiful lawn is not rocket science and there's no need for a masters degree in agronomy, but you'll need to adjust the way you're doing a few things now and keep the changes consistent into the future.
Most of us are already mowing our lawns, but are we doing it properly? • is your mow height high, 3"-3.
5"- if not, raise your wheels to highest notch and keep them there • are your mower blades sharp- take 15 minutes to sharpen your blades every month and you'll see a huge difference • do you mow weekly- if you believe the philosophy that mowing every two weeks and cutting the grass shorter, saves time, you're kidding yourself.
Taller, thicker grass produces slower mow speeds, more debris, the need for the property to be cut twice, raking and cleanup of piles and an ugly yellow lawn when finished.
This actually increases your time and decreases asthetics! Do you aerate the soil and add new seed to your lawn every year? • aeration allows more oxygen, water, fertilizer and Lime to get down to the roots.
Remember, healthy roots means healthy shoots or top growth! • aeration promotes increased root growth by loosening hard, compacted soils • adding new seed every year keeps your lawn full of grass which decreases the opportunity for weeds to find their way in and foul things up.
Do you fertilize/eliminate weeds like Dandelions, Crabgrass and Clover? • adding a complete fertilizer, meaning Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P) and Potassium (K) or the 3 numbers on the front of your bag, promotes healthy, thick grass with a dark green color, grows and strengthens roots and provides vigor and resistance to the get through the stresses of the year.
• eliminating weeds promotes a consistent, overall appearance and color to your lawn and allows for only the grass to better use the nutrients applied.
Fertilizing or feeding your grass Today we will be discussing fertilizing and feeding your lawn, which is one of the 3 habits you'll need to adopt to move forward to achieving a beautiful lawn.
Just like our bodies require nutrition everyday to remain healthy, your lawn requires the same, but luckily, nowhere near as often.
With the average lawn measuring in at a little over 8,000 square feet, the entire process, from purchasing to spreading should take no more than one hour, including cleaning and putting the spreader away.
If you can't give an hour to the one planting that covers probably 80-90% of your property, then you are selling your curb appeal and property value, short What is your spreader I.
Q.
If you were to envision the process of actually applying fertilizer to your lawn, it entails what, filling and pushing a spreader around? On the surface, it seems like a no brainer, very easy, anyone can do it, and your right, most people can do this properly, over time, but let me be the first to warn you, lose your focus and watch out.
Even as a professional, whose applied fertilizer hundreds of times, this one operation still requires my full attention, every time.
The potential for damage is quick and it's real.
Add to this the 90% of us who have something else on their minds when caring for their lawn and you can see the recipe for disaster.
Sad results of an inexperienced spreader When fertilizer is spread improperly, you lawn will reveal the hiccups in as little as one week.
Straw colored dead or burned areas will quickly appear where fertilizer was spilled or applied too heavily in one area.
Light and dark green lines, known as striping, appear from not paying attention as you go from pass to pass, overlapping a previous pass with more than the desired amount.
Weed seeds are always present in the soil are are always looking for an opportunity to germinate.
Kill or damage grass and they will quickly fill in, mature and start producing more seeds for future headaches.
Fertilizing your grass at the wrong time of the year will increase insect and disease problems.
Trying to promote growth when a plant wants to go dormant makes for a weak plant that are easily damaged or killed Another byproduct of the overuse and or poor cleanup of fertilizers is the pollution of our streams and bays which, not only affect the marine life and seafood we consume but ultimately leads to overall tighter restrictions on use.
Just the Facts Asking you to adopt a fertilizer program for your lawn is a great, first step in your goal to a healthier lawn but please understand, as a father and a professional in the green industry, it's more important to me, our environment and our industry that you understand why and how to properly apply these nutrients for the best use by your lawn.
Where do you live First and foremost when is the best time to fertilize the grass around your home.
Where do you live? Cool season grasses like Tall Fescue, Rye or Blue thrive in the Central to Northern US and actively grow and green up when the weather is Cool, meaning late March through May and September through early November.
Warm season grasses like Bermuda, Zoysia, Bahia or Centipede thrive in the southern US and actively grow and green up when the weather is Warm, meaning June, July and August.
Most lawns will have a combination of grasses growing together but the dominant grass and when you should fertilize is consistent with your location in the U.
S.
Fertilize Only when your grass is actively growing There are Cool and Warm Season grasses, and each has a specific time when they are actively growing.
Your goal is to fertilize only when your grass is actively growing.
Fertilize Cool Seasongrasses in late March through May and again in September through early November.
Fertilize Warm Season grasses in June, July and August.
Know the size of your property Know the size or square footage of your grass and buy only the amount of product you need.
Each bag of fertilizer will tell you how many square feet it covers so read the label, that's where your beautiful lawn starts.
How much Nitrogen to use Nitrogen is the first number on each fertilizer bag and is a vital ingredient for grass.
It assists in plant growth, photosynthesis and contributes to the dark green color.
Your goal, every year, is to apply a total of 3 pounds of Nitrogen to every one thousand square feet of grass.
Split the total Nitrogen for the year into three applications.
For example, cool season grasses use 3/4 of a pound in early April, 3/4 of a pound again in late May and 1.
5 pounds of N in the fall, either late September or October.
Fertilizer companies have made it easy on us to figure out how much Nitrogen to apply.
Most bags have a list of various spreader models printed right on the bag.
Next to each model there is either a number or letter correlating to the setting that will apply the proper amount of product per this bag.
Your job is to identify your spreader, match it with a spreader model on the bag, set it to the proper number and follow the spreading guidelines below.
If your spreader is not on the bag than you will need to figure out how many pounds of the product you have to achieve your Nitrogen goal.
Example apply 1/2 pound of Nitrogen using a bag labeled 20-5-10, .
20 percent Nitrogen, .
5 percent Phosphorous, .
10 percent Potassium.
Divide .
5 for the half pound of N you want to spread by the first number .
20 or The Nitrogen in the bag; .
5/.
20 equals 2.
5.
Every 2.
5 pounds of the product should cover 1000 square feet and contain 1/2 pound of Nitrogen.
If you want to apply a 3/4 a pound Nitrogen, substitute .
75 instead of the .
5, and so forth.
Make sure the release handle is closed prior to filling the spreader This may seem like a no brainer but always check to make sure the release handle that allows the fertilizer to drop out of the spreader is closed prior to adding the material.
I have made this mistake before and it simply drops right out of the bottom creating a nice mess.
Be careful when filling your spreader The process of emptying the material from the bag into the spreader is where you're most likely to come into contact with the chemical or dust from the bag.
Wearing gloves, a mask and glasses are your best options but there not always available in our garden sheds.
I want you to be safe but in the real world most of us do not have masks or respirators.
Simply turn your head slightly away and hold your breath and this will help avoid most danger.
Always fill your spreader on a hard surface Always fill the spreader on a hard surface (driveway, street, sidewalk), never on the grass.
If you have a spill, clean up is much easier and you won't damage the lawn.
Always move forward before you start spreading Before you open the handle to start the release of the fertilizer, it's important that the spreader is moving forward.
The spinning tires turn an impeller under the hopper which will properly spread the material.
If the spreader is not moving, the fertilizer will fall directly to the ground in piles and increase the potential for burned or dead grass.
Make sure the material comes out and is spreading evenly, when you first start spreading.
Sometimes, when the hopper is full, the weight of the material inhibits the metal bar from wiggling at the bottom and assisting the fertilizer to drop out of the holes and spread properly.
If this happens, simply close the handle, return to your starting point, tap sides of spreader and repeat again until it spreads properly.
Always walk at steady pace It's important to walk at a consistent pace when spreading fertilizer.
The speed you walk determines the amount of fertilizer released and how wide it's spread.
The faster you walk, the wider the spread but the amount covering each square foot is decreased.
The slower you walk, the width of the spread is decreased but the amount covering each square foot is increased.
Observe where the outside pellets are landing on each pass.
Your goal is to barely over lap the outer edge of each pass as you return in the opposite direction.
The outer edge of each pass does not contain as much fertilizer as directly in front of the spreader.
Overlapping guarantees even coverage throughout the process.
Do not to run out of material half way through a pass Running out of material in the middle of a pass makes it very hard to start again and get the proper coverage.
You will need to move the spreader to refill and then try to regain the exact spot where you stopped.
It never works out.
Applying material along a wall, fence or House When applying material along a solid wall (house or fence), remember, pellets hitting the surface, will settle down and build up in large quantities at the base.
Make sure only the outer edge of the pellets hits these areas to avoid burned or dead grass.
Applying material along a street or sidewalk When applying fertilizer along an edge where a street or sidewalk meet the grass, make sure the majority of pellets stay in the grass.
It's important to get good coverage along these edges, especially with Crabgrass pre-emergent but paying attention limits the chemical getting into the street where it may end up in our streams and bays.
Clean all hard surfaces when finished Use a blower to clean all the excess fertilizer from streets and sidewalks and deposit it back into the lawn.
Proper cleanup protects our streams and bays and keeps the fertilizer where it belongs.
Some fertilizer combinations also contain chemicals that will stain your concrete sidewalks, walkways and driveways.
Clean up the excess! Clean spreader after each use Always empty any remaining product back into the bag and rinse out the spreader when finished.
I recommend using a rubber tire spreader if available, compared to the smaller plastic tire models.
They are easier to push, have a wider spread and take less time.
If you have to use a plastic tire model, do not fill the hopper all the way as this will make it easier to maneuver.
Good luck, take your time and read your labels.
Knowledge is a beautiful lawn! All the best, Todd twscapes@gmail.
com
A healthy, well cared for lawn simply looks stunning! It's beautiful to look at, fun to play on, dramatically increases a properties curb appeal and potential value and best of all, is extremely healthy for the environment.
The fact is, achieving a beautiful lawn is not rocket science and there's no need for a masters degree in agronomy, but you'll need to adjust the way you're doing a few things now and keep the changes consistent into the future.
Most of us are already mowing our lawns, but are we doing it properly? • is your mow height high, 3"-3.
5"- if not, raise your wheels to highest notch and keep them there • are your mower blades sharp- take 15 minutes to sharpen your blades every month and you'll see a huge difference • do you mow weekly- if you believe the philosophy that mowing every two weeks and cutting the grass shorter, saves time, you're kidding yourself.
Taller, thicker grass produces slower mow speeds, more debris, the need for the property to be cut twice, raking and cleanup of piles and an ugly yellow lawn when finished.
This actually increases your time and decreases asthetics! Do you aerate the soil and add new seed to your lawn every year? • aeration allows more oxygen, water, fertilizer and Lime to get down to the roots.
Remember, healthy roots means healthy shoots or top growth! • aeration promotes increased root growth by loosening hard, compacted soils • adding new seed every year keeps your lawn full of grass which decreases the opportunity for weeds to find their way in and foul things up.
Do you fertilize/eliminate weeds like Dandelions, Crabgrass and Clover? • adding a complete fertilizer, meaning Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P) and Potassium (K) or the 3 numbers on the front of your bag, promotes healthy, thick grass with a dark green color, grows and strengthens roots and provides vigor and resistance to the get through the stresses of the year.
• eliminating weeds promotes a consistent, overall appearance and color to your lawn and allows for only the grass to better use the nutrients applied.
Fertilizing or feeding your grass Today we will be discussing fertilizing and feeding your lawn, which is one of the 3 habits you'll need to adopt to move forward to achieving a beautiful lawn.
Just like our bodies require nutrition everyday to remain healthy, your lawn requires the same, but luckily, nowhere near as often.
With the average lawn measuring in at a little over 8,000 square feet, the entire process, from purchasing to spreading should take no more than one hour, including cleaning and putting the spreader away.
If you can't give an hour to the one planting that covers probably 80-90% of your property, then you are selling your curb appeal and property value, short What is your spreader I.
Q.
If you were to envision the process of actually applying fertilizer to your lawn, it entails what, filling and pushing a spreader around? On the surface, it seems like a no brainer, very easy, anyone can do it, and your right, most people can do this properly, over time, but let me be the first to warn you, lose your focus and watch out.
Even as a professional, whose applied fertilizer hundreds of times, this one operation still requires my full attention, every time.
The potential for damage is quick and it's real.
Add to this the 90% of us who have something else on their minds when caring for their lawn and you can see the recipe for disaster.
Sad results of an inexperienced spreader When fertilizer is spread improperly, you lawn will reveal the hiccups in as little as one week.
Straw colored dead or burned areas will quickly appear where fertilizer was spilled or applied too heavily in one area.
Light and dark green lines, known as striping, appear from not paying attention as you go from pass to pass, overlapping a previous pass with more than the desired amount.
Weed seeds are always present in the soil are are always looking for an opportunity to germinate.
Kill or damage grass and they will quickly fill in, mature and start producing more seeds for future headaches.
Fertilizing your grass at the wrong time of the year will increase insect and disease problems.
Trying to promote growth when a plant wants to go dormant makes for a weak plant that are easily damaged or killed Another byproduct of the overuse and or poor cleanup of fertilizers is the pollution of our streams and bays which, not only affect the marine life and seafood we consume but ultimately leads to overall tighter restrictions on use.
Just the Facts Asking you to adopt a fertilizer program for your lawn is a great, first step in your goal to a healthier lawn but please understand, as a father and a professional in the green industry, it's more important to me, our environment and our industry that you understand why and how to properly apply these nutrients for the best use by your lawn.
Where do you live First and foremost when is the best time to fertilize the grass around your home.
Where do you live? Cool season grasses like Tall Fescue, Rye or Blue thrive in the Central to Northern US and actively grow and green up when the weather is Cool, meaning late March through May and September through early November.
Warm season grasses like Bermuda, Zoysia, Bahia or Centipede thrive in the southern US and actively grow and green up when the weather is Warm, meaning June, July and August.
Most lawns will have a combination of grasses growing together but the dominant grass and when you should fertilize is consistent with your location in the U.
S.
Fertilize Only when your grass is actively growing There are Cool and Warm Season grasses, and each has a specific time when they are actively growing.
Your goal is to fertilize only when your grass is actively growing.
Fertilize Cool Seasongrasses in late March through May and again in September through early November.
Fertilize Warm Season grasses in June, July and August.
Know the size of your property Know the size or square footage of your grass and buy only the amount of product you need.
Each bag of fertilizer will tell you how many square feet it covers so read the label, that's where your beautiful lawn starts.
How much Nitrogen to use Nitrogen is the first number on each fertilizer bag and is a vital ingredient for grass.
It assists in plant growth, photosynthesis and contributes to the dark green color.
Your goal, every year, is to apply a total of 3 pounds of Nitrogen to every one thousand square feet of grass.
Split the total Nitrogen for the year into three applications.
For example, cool season grasses use 3/4 of a pound in early April, 3/4 of a pound again in late May and 1.
5 pounds of N in the fall, either late September or October.
Fertilizer companies have made it easy on us to figure out how much Nitrogen to apply.
Most bags have a list of various spreader models printed right on the bag.
Next to each model there is either a number or letter correlating to the setting that will apply the proper amount of product per this bag.
Your job is to identify your spreader, match it with a spreader model on the bag, set it to the proper number and follow the spreading guidelines below.
If your spreader is not on the bag than you will need to figure out how many pounds of the product you have to achieve your Nitrogen goal.
Example apply 1/2 pound of Nitrogen using a bag labeled 20-5-10, .
20 percent Nitrogen, .
5 percent Phosphorous, .
10 percent Potassium.
Divide .
5 for the half pound of N you want to spread by the first number .
20 or The Nitrogen in the bag; .
5/.
20 equals 2.
5.
Every 2.
5 pounds of the product should cover 1000 square feet and contain 1/2 pound of Nitrogen.
If you want to apply a 3/4 a pound Nitrogen, substitute .
75 instead of the .
5, and so forth.
Make sure the release handle is closed prior to filling the spreader This may seem like a no brainer but always check to make sure the release handle that allows the fertilizer to drop out of the spreader is closed prior to adding the material.
I have made this mistake before and it simply drops right out of the bottom creating a nice mess.
Be careful when filling your spreader The process of emptying the material from the bag into the spreader is where you're most likely to come into contact with the chemical or dust from the bag.
Wearing gloves, a mask and glasses are your best options but there not always available in our garden sheds.
I want you to be safe but in the real world most of us do not have masks or respirators.
Simply turn your head slightly away and hold your breath and this will help avoid most danger.
Always fill your spreader on a hard surface Always fill the spreader on a hard surface (driveway, street, sidewalk), never on the grass.
If you have a spill, clean up is much easier and you won't damage the lawn.
Always move forward before you start spreading Before you open the handle to start the release of the fertilizer, it's important that the spreader is moving forward.
The spinning tires turn an impeller under the hopper which will properly spread the material.
If the spreader is not moving, the fertilizer will fall directly to the ground in piles and increase the potential for burned or dead grass.
Make sure the material comes out and is spreading evenly, when you first start spreading.
Sometimes, when the hopper is full, the weight of the material inhibits the metal bar from wiggling at the bottom and assisting the fertilizer to drop out of the holes and spread properly.
If this happens, simply close the handle, return to your starting point, tap sides of spreader and repeat again until it spreads properly.
Always walk at steady pace It's important to walk at a consistent pace when spreading fertilizer.
The speed you walk determines the amount of fertilizer released and how wide it's spread.
The faster you walk, the wider the spread but the amount covering each square foot is decreased.
The slower you walk, the width of the spread is decreased but the amount covering each square foot is increased.
Observe where the outside pellets are landing on each pass.
Your goal is to barely over lap the outer edge of each pass as you return in the opposite direction.
The outer edge of each pass does not contain as much fertilizer as directly in front of the spreader.
Overlapping guarantees even coverage throughout the process.
Do not to run out of material half way through a pass Running out of material in the middle of a pass makes it very hard to start again and get the proper coverage.
You will need to move the spreader to refill and then try to regain the exact spot where you stopped.
It never works out.
Applying material along a wall, fence or House When applying material along a solid wall (house or fence), remember, pellets hitting the surface, will settle down and build up in large quantities at the base.
Make sure only the outer edge of the pellets hits these areas to avoid burned or dead grass.
Applying material along a street or sidewalk When applying fertilizer along an edge where a street or sidewalk meet the grass, make sure the majority of pellets stay in the grass.
It's important to get good coverage along these edges, especially with Crabgrass pre-emergent but paying attention limits the chemical getting into the street where it may end up in our streams and bays.
Clean all hard surfaces when finished Use a blower to clean all the excess fertilizer from streets and sidewalks and deposit it back into the lawn.
Proper cleanup protects our streams and bays and keeps the fertilizer where it belongs.
Some fertilizer combinations also contain chemicals that will stain your concrete sidewalks, walkways and driveways.
Clean up the excess! Clean spreader after each use Always empty any remaining product back into the bag and rinse out the spreader when finished.
I recommend using a rubber tire spreader if available, compared to the smaller plastic tire models.
They are easier to push, have a wider spread and take less time.
If you have to use a plastic tire model, do not fill the hopper all the way as this will make it easier to maneuver.
Good luck, take your time and read your labels.
Knowledge is a beautiful lawn! All the best, Todd twscapes@gmail.
com
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