Foundation

• 1). Lay out the placement of the exterior walls on the building site using a tape measure to make parallel walls the same length. Draw lines representing the walls on the ground using mason's lime or chalk line. Measure two diagonal lines from corner to opposite corner. Adjust the perimeter until the diagonal lines are equal in length to ensure the foundation is square.
  
  
• 2). Mark placement of foundation piers by making Xs on the ground with mason's lime at the building's corners and at recommended intervals along perimeter based on building load and column size/strength. Dig a hole at each X with pick and shovel. The holes should be larger than the forms and extend below your area's frostline. Fill the holes with 2 to 4 inches of gravel. Insert concrete forms and backfill around them with excavated material transferred by shovel. Saw plywood into template pieces big enough to cover each form. Drill holes through plywood to match exact placement of column anchor holes and extra holes for air release when floating concrete. Put anchor bolts through designated holes with the threaded ends extending above the plywood. Check that each bolt is perpendicular to the plywood template using a carpenter's level. Use fingers, then crescent wrench to fasten nuts snugly.
  
  
• 3). Fill forms with concrete, float and scrape the tops level with scrap lumber. Attach templates to forms using a hammer and duplex nails, with long ends of anchor bolts in the concrete and the bolts plumb. Let concrete cure as recommended.
  
  

Framing

• 1). Loosen anchor nuts with crescent wrench and remove with fingers. Slide a baseplate over the anchor bolts on each pier and place a flat washer on each anchor bolt by hand. Install vertical columns on anchor bolts beginning at the center of the sidewalls. Use carpenter's level to ensure that each column is plumb before hand replacing and tightening its anchor nuts.
  
  
• 2). Attach girts or horizontal braces to columns with bolts, clips and hand-tightened nuts. Alternate small and large flanges as you overlap girt ends. Stand on ladder or scaffolding to install high-level girts and eave struts at top of columns. Hand tighten mounting hardware.
  
  
• 3). Lay out pairs of rafters on the ground and connect them by tightening peak slice plate hardware securely with a spud wrench. Lift each rafter assembly with block and tackle or crane beginning at center of sidewall. Check that rafters are plumb and level with carpenter's level. Attach to vertical columns with mounting hardware and hand tighten. Brace in place with scrap lumber as necessary. Attach purlins across rafters by hand tightening nuts on bolts.
  
  
• 4). Square and plumb the central frame assembly. Tighten mounting hardware securely at the base and where the rafter meets the sidewall column with a spud wrench. Work outward, squaring, plumbing and securing each frame assembly. Construct end wall frames as you did sidewalls.
  
  

Sheathing

• 1). Make pilot holes in foundation piers with hammer drill. Secure base-angle trim with concrete anchors applied by drill, hammer or product-specific recommended method. Secure rake-angle trim to end gables with self-tapping screws with sealing washers inserted with screw gun. Fit flush to eave struts. Stack and align groups of 10 wall panels on the ground. Secure with vise-grip clamps. Mark fastener holes with pencil beginning at vertical center of panel, using tape measure to space them 20 inches apart on center. Drill holes at marks. Stack on ground, align and clamp together sets of 10 roof panels and mark for holes 12 inches apart. Leave 2 inches minimum between each end of panel and first hole mark. Drill holes at marks.
  
  
• 2). Attach first wall panel of a sidewall to end column, eave strut and base-angle, using screw gun to install self-tapping screws with sealing washers through pre-drilled holes and keeping panel's bottom edge at least ¼ inch above the ground. Overlap the next panel and attach to the frame. Repeat the procedure across both sidewalls, then on end walls. Use screw gun and self-tapping screws with sealing washers to attach corner and eave trim.
  
  
• 3). Clamp roof panel to peak purlin and eave strut with vise-grips and attach using screw gun and self-tapping screws with sealing washers in pre-drilled holes. Leave a 2 inch minimum gable-end overhang and work along both sides of ridge line until roof is covered.
  
  
• 4). Apply sealant tape to the roof where the lower edge of the ridge cap meets the panels to restrict water entry. Install ridge cap, pressing to tape to make a firm seal. Place fastening screws above the top edge of the tape. Apply finish trim with mounting hardware over the sealant tape.