Prepping

• 1). Remove all of the baseboards from the room. Cut the baseboard to the wall caulking to prevent damaging the wall during removal. Do not cut into the wall but only slice the caulking loose. Cut the nails holding one end of the baseboard by sliding the stiff knife behind the baseboard over the nail and striking firmly with a hammer. Work the cut end free of the wall and carefully lever the rest of the baseboard off the wall with the hammer. Baseboards are usually finger-jointed and weak so care should be taken to not break them.
  
  
• 2). Check the floor for flatness. Start at one corner with the bubble level and move across the floor. Fill any low spots of hollows with self-leveling floor patch. Allow the patch to dry fully before proceeding and check the floor again with the bubble level. Floors that are badly out of level may need to be capped fully with floor leveler.
  
  
• 3). Determine if the door jambs must be trimmed. Lay a tile next to the jamb and add 1/4 inch to the thickness and mark. If the mark falls out on the door casing or the jamb then they must be trimmed. Mark both sides of the door jamb in the room being floored. Cut the casing and door jamb off at the bottom with a handsaw or a jambsaw.
  
  

Laying

• 1). Mix a batch of thinset tile adhesive as per manufacturer's directions. Trowel on the thinset, starting at one corner and work your way out. Trowel out an area no bigger than what you can comfortably reach across. Lay the first tile in the corner and gently bed it into the thinset. Check for level with the puck or a short bubble level.
  
  
• 2). Place the two adjacent tiles into place. Insert the tile spacers in between the tiles, two to a side, to locate and space the successive tiles. Bed these tiles down gently and check frequently for level against the first tile with the bubble level. Do not over bed the tiles and drive them too deep as it will make a low spot that will be visible and possibly collect water. Keep all successive tiles in a plane with the first tile and check each one with the puck to prevent any corners from sticking up. Proceed with small batches of thinset and tile until the floor is covered. Allow all of the thinset to cure before grouting.
  
  
• 3). Mix a batch of grout following the manufacturer's directions. Pour a modest amount of grout onto the floor, starting at a corner. Tuck the grout into the joints then trowel the grout diagonally across the joints with a rubber grout trowel. Fill the joints up flush with the surface of the tile. Trowel as much excess as possible into nearby joints. Allow the grout to set up as per manufacturer's instructions (about 20 minutes). Wipe excess grout away with a sponge and fresh water. Use a circular motion to avoid dragging the grout out of the joint. Wipe down till the grout is recessed slightly below the surface of the tile. Continue in stages until the room is grouted in completely. Remove the thin layer of grout left on the tiles with grout haze remover.